Gathering Memories and Finding Grizzly
By Paul D. Atkins
We had been fishing all day with no luck. A lack of interest on the fish’s part had made it a long morning and afternoon of casting and reeling with nothing to show. So, when the big chum hit my lure late that evening, I was surprised to say the least. Lew, who luckily was back at the boat, saw it and came running with the net, capturing the big guy just as he worked the lure out of his mouth. I was thankful.
Even though they are at the bottom of the preferable salmon chain, I love to catch these big fighters. It’s something we cherish during the late summer. Great on rod and reel and also on the grill!
August is the month of anticipation. It’s the month when things start to get serious, especially for hunters who want to get out and see what the country has to offer. It’s a welcome time for fisherman too, those of us who like to chase big chum, arctic char and various other species who make their home upriver. The weather is still warm, and even though the mosquitoes are in full force, a boat ride north is more than just a boat ride. It’s a ritual.
Our goal, as usual, was to head north to an old familiar spot in hopes of catching a few fish and if we’re lucky, maybe see a bear or two and if we were really lucky, maybe a shootable moose. Its funny sometimes how an adventure unfolds. You know you’re going, and you know you’ll be out there in the thick of it, but you’re never really sure how things will turn out. You hope or I should say dream of bending the rod a few times, or maybe crossing the path of a bear that will make the neighbors jealous, and if things go completely right, you’ll fill numerous game bags with an early season moose. But like I said you never really know.
A sight I’ve seen and experienced many times. Lew and his boat getting ready to push off for another adventure.
In the old days the boat ride upriver was boring for me. An uneventful excursion of waves and passing willows, with me in the front saying, “let’s hurry up and get to camp, so we can start hunting”. We couldn’t get there fast enough in those days, but now, it’s different, I cherish the ride more than ever. It’s still familiar, like an old house and one I’ve traveled many times over the many years I’ve been here, but now I see it in a new light.
I’ve had several boat captains over those same years, especially in the early days, but none as good as my good friend Lew, who drives his boat now, allowing me to sit up front and view all the wonders that the river offers. As I sit there, I reflect mostly on the specific places I’ve been, time spent on various adventures throughout the years. I don’t know if that means I’m getting old or maybe I’ve just been lucky to have gone out as much as I have. Could be both.
All camps are different, whether it’s on the river or the tundra or anywhere else in the world. But the feeling of anticipation and beauty isn’t. This camp was perfect with a perfect view.
The river itself is old and has changed very little over the years. Maybe a few more cabins and make shift camps here and there, but the crooks and crannies, the slews and sandbars haven’t changed much. The infamous Hugo mountain still sits close to the mouth of the river. A place I first visited when I came here, it looms large at the river’s edge, towering above like a big grey rock, which it is. As we pass it on the boat, I remember it was where I saw my first grizzly and a place where my Dad took his first and only caribou all those years ago.
The old river hasn’t changed much. Other than a few new cabins and make shift camps you’ll pretty much see the same thing. This old camp has provided shelter for Lew and I many times.
The Noatak is one of many rivers in Alaska. It’s big, wide in places and always beautiful I never get tired of it.
Everyone who lives here knows the river and all have their favorite place on it. I know I do. As we ride, I see more familiar places, like the tundra valley right past Hugo, where I took a caribou in full velvet and that was August! That was long time ago and something you will never see again. Or the long stretch of river before the rock canyon, where I rode a trail dragging a sled full of sheep during a winter subsistence hunt. The snow was so deep and perfect, with no bumps, we flew that day.
Memories run amuck on the Noatak River. Due to a change in migration patterns you don’t see many caribou there in more. This bull was one of the last I’ve taken there.
Then we get up into the hills, where Nap creek comes in and is considered by many, one of the greatest hunting areas on the river. One of the few places where, at one time, you could have a trifecta on moose, caribou and bear. Pass the creek it starts to get really familiar for Lew and me. This is muskox country, and even though the hills and tundra are empty of snow and ice, it soon will be. I ponder as we cruise by the area in the boat, thinking back to previous hunts, where we ended up filling those ox tags. The mountain to the right was where we took last year’s bull and over the across the river is where I about crashed my snow machine trying to get to those. It’s very nostalgic for me each time we go through there. I kept wondering though, where will this year’s Muskox be?
The area known as Nap creek is famous. You never know what you’ll see there and back in the old days it could have meant, not only bear, but moose and caribou too.
Back to reality. Lew and I finally make it to where we’re going. A place I’ve wrote about before and if you’ve read it, you know it’s dear to my heart, the Eli River. We’ve been coming here every year, hoping to kill a bear or two, plus catch a few of those ornery old chums that everyone gives me crap about. It’s just a fun time. This year however we are early, plus there’s someone camped in our old spot, which has become another nuisance these last couple of years. I guess that’s my fault though, writing about it, describing how great it is. I know sometimes places should be kept secret, but not this place, it’s too special.
All camps are different, whether it’s on the river or the tundra or anywhere else in the world. But the feeling of anticipation and beauty isn’t. This camp was perfect with a perfect view.
Anyway, we decide to camp a little further down river this time, keeping away from other people and the conflict that usually arrives from that. A nice gravel bar with deep water and a view to the surrounding area looked perfect, so we anchored. We quickly off load the boat and get the big green Cabela’s tent set-up. Lew has fire duty, while I whip us something for dinner. As we sit by the fire eating a delicious MRE and pondering what the next day will be like, we know it’s perfect. That’s the thing, every hunting camp is different, but the feeling isn’t.
¨It was getting late and I told Lew we better pack up and go. With the boat loaded I pulled the anchor and pushed us off the bank. I decided to have one more look down river to see if there was anything moving just in case. Immediately I saw him, “There’s a bear, I whispered to Lew and he’s a big one”! Lew couldn’t believe it, but sure enough there he was, and he was walking straight at us.¨
Getting back to camp after an intense evening of bear hunting is a pleasure all its own. Fresh fish, beans and a drink or two made it all better.
The next day found Lew and I fishing the river next to camp. The fish were jumping and splashing, but not as vigorous as they have been in the past or will be in a short couple of weeks. I catch a small arctic char, release him and then tell Lew we should head up river for the day.
August means seals upriver. Like us they are there for the fish. During the midday you can find them sunning themselves on sand bars and logs.
We maneuver through the river, more exploring than anything else. We discover slews and streams that we hadn’t seen before, making it more of a scouting adventure than just another voyage. We even see a bear that piques our interest, but it wasn’t meant to be. Finally, we come to an old familiar spot, where we had caught many fish before. It was a couple of years ago at least and even though the gravel bar seems to be gone, it still looked the same other than the high water.
We fished for a couple of hours with zero luck. They just weren’t biting. The water was high and maybe we were early, I don’t know. So, we sat in the boat drinking Mountain Dew and eating a Snickers, trying to decide what we were going to do with all the daylight. I told Lew let’s go around this corner and drift down and see what there is south of us. We did so and within a mile the surroundings started to look familiar, very familiar. Hey! I told Lew, this is we were last year when all those bears attacked us, and we chased that big moose into the willows. He said you’re right. We landed the boat on the sandy bank and we immediately started looking bear tracks, there weren’t any, which was kind of a bummer. Dumbfounded we decided that going back to camp was a waste of a good evening, so we decided to stay, fish, work on our tan and hopefully be attacked by bears again.
Heading back home took a little longer than expected. A fog bank rolled in and visibility a little iffy at best. The last thing you want to do is make a wrong turn and end up stranded on a sand bar.
My tan was turning to a sunburn when the big chum hit the Pink Pixee at the end of my line. And before I knew it, I had a fight on my hands. Churning, swimming and fighting like a banshee I worked the fish seemingly down the bank. Lew, who was in the boat, came running to my rescue, netting the big guy easily. We had a fish! And even though I get scoffed at and made fun of by those who live south of here, I really like catching chum and eating them, especially the early ones who are just making their way into the swift water.
It wasn’t no time until Lew hooked one too, giving him a fight, but eventually landing him in the net. Great, we now have caught two fish, so we figured they’d start biting and we would catch more. We figured wrong with now bites the rest of the evening. But It didn’t matter, it was bear-thirty, time to go hide in the willows and wait.
We even had time to stop by our favorite lake for some Pike fishing. We only caught one, and other than a couple of bloody fingers it was a good time in the sun.
At dusk, which in northern Alaska this time of year is about 11:30 pm, it started to get cold and the bugs started to form herds around our heads. Sitting uncomfortably in the sand, Lew and I kept put, continuously looking at our Thermacells to make sure they were working, wondering if a bear would actually show up. We didn’t have to wonder long. The old familiar sound of gravel under foot came from behind us. I slowly peered around to catch just a glimpse a small bear coming out downwind of us. He realized as soon as he did, that something wasn’t right and left in a hurry.
It was getting late and I told Lew we better pack up and go. With the boat loaded I pulled the anchor and pushed us off the bank. I decided to have one more look down river to see if there was anything moving just in case. Immediately I saw him, “There’s a bear, I whispered to Lew and he’s a big one”! Lew couldn’t believe it, but sure enough there he was, and he was walking straight at us.
Now as you know or may not know, Lew and I have been hunting together for many years. One thing we do is share, more specifically we take turns on certain hunts. Last spring, I was lucky enough to take a super nice bear, so this time it was Lew’s turn and next time it will be mine and so on. Anyway, I told Lew to make his way back up to where we were sitting and wait. “He’ll walk right to you and then shoot him when he’s close”, I said. Lew got there and I watched through the Leica’s as the story unfolded. I kept thinking, was this destiny or just another ritual we’ve gotten used to? Either way it would be another memory for sure. At the sound of the shot, the bear turned and headed to the brush bleeding profusely.
Once Lew got his hearing back from the boom of the rifle, we boated over to have a look. There was blood, but not much of it. The bear’s tracks lead into a wall of willows where we were met by an onslaught of mosquitoes. It was miserable, but me armed with my 10-mm and Lew his rifle we proceeded into the dark abyss. It was nerve wrecking and at that moment I wondered if this what hunters in Africa felt like when they had to go into the long grass looking for a wounded cat?
We didn’t have to go far when the blood trail picked up, leading us to the bear. Dead where he lay and with a perfect shot. He was enormous, bigger than we even thought. The work began then and so did the worry. Skinning bear in the dark, in the thick stuff was no fun, but we eventually got it done and by the time we got back to camp it was 4 in the morning.
Bears are plentiful on the river and even though we were a bit early this year this guy showed up right at dark. Lew made an excellent shot, but the aftermath of getting him out of there was a bit tricky.
Even though you really don’t know how a day will end in the Arctic, it’s still amazing when a plan does come together. We accomplished our goal of catching a few fish, getting a bear and most importantly carrying on a tradition or the ritual if you will. Another place on the river that will mean something. Now, if could just find that moose.
Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He has written hundreds of articles on big game hunting, and fishing throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. Paul is a regular contributor to Hafaspot.
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